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Neal Martin Vinous 88-91/100The 2023 Fonréaud is just a bit pinched on the nose, but it seems to open up with aeration. That said, it never quite clicks out of second gear. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins and more fruit concentration than the aromatics suggest. It coheres nicely with a dash of black pepper and allspice on the finish. If the aromatics can get their act together, this could be a decent Listrac. Indeed, a second bottle tasted three weeks later does show a little more panache.